Field Notes
Stories, guides and small obsessions from the roads of Uganda and Kenya.
Wildlife
Mara conservancies: why fewer vehicles matters
How community conservancies work, who they pay and why the sightings are better.
On the road
Why the drive is our favourite part
Roadside maize, a fundi at a puncture stop and a view nobody puts on a brochure. In praise of the transfer.
Planning
East Africa Tourist Visa or separate visas?
A plain guide to the eTA, the e-visa and the three-country visa, updated every season.
Planning
Crossing from Uganda to Kenya by road
What happens at a one-stop border post, how long it takes and what to have ready.
Music
Isukuti: the drum that starts every celebration
The history and rhythm behind western Kenyas most joyful dance, from the drummers who play it.
Music
A beginners guide to Kidandali and Benga
Two sounds, two capitals. What to listen for, and where to hear it live.
Food
Luwombo: the three-hour dish worth the wait
Why Bugandas banana-leaf stew is saved for special days, and what happens in the kitchen before it reaches the table.
Food
The rolex, explained
Chapati, eggs and a chopping board at midnight. How Kampalas favourite street food got its name, and where our guides go for theirs.